The Yamaha Aerox
- Well.. the Aerox has been going so perfectly and still feels very fast. The next bits I was to put on are a bigger front brake disc and caliper adaptor. I will have to source these from the UK so I may as well order a few more pieces.. maybe Halogen headlights and EGT (exhaust Gas Temp) Guage.
I am tempted to midify the headlight myself and put in 2 x Halogen lamps and relay. I should be able to mould the Lamps into the headlight internal part that moves with the adjuster screw, therefor stil giving me lamp adjustment, higher and lower.
If you focus above the rear tail lamp, you'l see I've hotglued in and wired up a bunch of 6 x high bright red 10mm LEDs. These look very bright from behind and are wired to be on always when engine is runing and headlight switch is 'on' position. I've been running stainless steel braided fuel line and oil lines. I have also modified the exhaust tip of the Giannelli Sprint. I've cut off the end and welded a stainless angles bend to it. I think it looks nicer. lol
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Other Bits and Parts.. Pics
Some pics of Dellorto 22mm Carb Malossi Kit
Currently I'm using an 88 Main Jet
MHR Delta Clutch Malossi
Prodigy Rear adjustable Pulley.
On below setting at the moment.
The old original pulley has worn out badly..
I tried a Leo Vince ZX Exhaust also but decided to stick with the Gianelli Sprint for now. I'm needing a more racey pipe like a Yasuni.
The ZX peeked at 7000rpm but I'm lookin to peak engine at 9000-10000rpm.
The Sprint is a slightly shorter pipe over the ZX. Sprint sounds raspy and the ZX sounds a bigger and more powerful sounding exhaust.
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Reed pettles, Valves and gearing issues..
Well with Cylinder done, run-in and running oh so sweet, it was time to play with the reed valve.
I fist remove the standard reed block, removed the metal standard reeds because I am revving the motor to 9500rpm now (1000rpm over standard redline), so I was conserned about the metal reed pettles snapping off and potentially destroying my engine. I next installed some Malossi 0.3mm Carbon reed pettles into it..
I didn't notice any speed increase with this modification but it gave me some peace of mind because if carbon reeds break off at high RPM, there little chance they will do any damage to the engine. Strangely enough though, the engine did begin to start up much easier in the mornings from being dead-cold. Starting on very first turn of the key, with a little choke on. Hmm
I got a call 2 weeks later from GPS Imports (my usual dealer for parts here in Melbourne), telling me the Malossi Reed blocks for Aerox 100cc had just arrived.. yes I couldn't resist to get one and find out if they were different to the original, and if so, how.
About $100bux later and here it was.
The first thing I had noticed was that the whole body was coated in rubber, as opposed to the original which is bare metal and lightly rubber coated on the surface the pettles flapped on. Also on the new Malossi unit the pettles were slightly larger in length and width. I thought there was not a great deal of difference to the original.. until I turned it upside-down.
From this view I could see that the total valve area was much much larger than the original. Longer opening and wider opening. If I was to guess, I'de say the Malossi value could pass/flow about 30% more volume of Air-fuel mix through it.
The full thick rubber coating on the Malossi value body also allowed me to not have to use a paper gasket on the mounting surfaces as the rubber coatings provide a good seal to engine and intake manifold.
With the new valve installed, the easy cold starting was still there and I've noticed more top speed of about 5kph although its getting hard to measure top speed now because the numbers on speedo end at 120kph. The needle looks like its pointing at about 130-135kph so the Aerox winds off the speedo heaps.
Gearing issue's..
For a long while now, the Aerox has had 20-60kph problems not excelerating hard like it does after 60kph. This is because the gearing is shifting up taller too early and not letting the engine use its most powerful RPM's of 8000rpm+. At 20kph-60kph it revving from 6000rpm-7500rpm, which its still putting out decent power but no where as much as it does after 8000rpm.
I've been stratching my head for ages trying to figure out what could be causing the gearing to up change too early. I've tried changing Contrast springs from standard to yellow (which I use now) and even tried a red spring with no difference at all. I've tried different belts and even adding a spacer washer in-between the variator, thinking maybe the gearing issue was to do with the wider malossi Kevlar belt being wider than standard and sitting too high in the variator. This wasn't the case because the spacer made no noticable different at all, only lower my top speed slightly. So I'v been running no spacer in variator and using Yellow Malossi read contrast spring now for a long time.
Today I had an idea to dis-assemble the read torque pulley completely and check for anything unusual. This was a great idea lol, because it turned out that the problem is coming from badly worn out guide chanels in the rear pulley.
As you can see the chanel where the pin run allong to control opening and closing of the pulley is very worn out and causing the pulley to open up (raise gearing) too early and too easily.
So next mod is definately a new real torque pulley from either Malossi or an eBay shop from Taiwan item made by Prodigy, a standard Yamaha Item could also be used. Over the next week or two I will be working on fixing this problem up and post results and pic here in my blog.
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Latest progression..
Well, I haven't been able to play around with the Aerox for a couple months now until a 2weeks ago, which is when my latest addon to enhance power further a 120cc Cylinder kit was optained.
Below is a comparison between the original cylinder and the new Clyinder kit. I knew my standard cylinder was hurting me makin power but when I finally stripped the cylinder off and took a close look at the ports and piston, I knew I would see nice power gains with new cylinder / /piston kit. Its also a bigger cylinder and piston.
Original Piston = 52mm
New Piston = 55mm
The exhaust and inlet ports are bigger also, expecially the exhaust port, Its large and kinda wide.
I raised the Aerox of the motor / rear wheel assemble and rested bike on a seat. Things are very easy to work on when apart like this
Here is a fast scetch of the new cylinder..
ENGINE MODIFICATIONS : MAX SPEED (flat road no wind, head down) (All tests with 98octane fuel and reading taken off speedo)
Lighter Original Rollers 6g Malossi x 6 80 KPH
Malossi Red Airfilter on Original Airbox 82 KPH
Malossi Kevlar Belt (was wider than original 1-2mm) 85 KPH
Malossi Multivar 2000 Variator (larger rollers in it 12gr) 90KPH (Was highest top speed but was bogging under 6000RPM and slow take offs)
Malossi 9.3gr Rollers 85KPH (Gave me slightly less bog under 6000rpm 55kph, but 5kph less top speed - nicer to ride tho)
Gianelli Sprint Exhaust 85KPH (I was shocked to find the pipe gave me no extra power, just a better note, this is when I knew standard cylinder is robbing me)
Malossi Dellorto 22mm PHVB Carburettor Kit 22mm Intal rubber also. 85KPH ( Grrr Had nicer throttle responce and very more powerful in cold weather somethimes - Cylinder must go.. )
Malossi White Clutch springs in Orig Clutch. 85KPH ( Revved to 5500 to grip on and originaly used to grip at 4000rpm - felt slippyer but bit nicer to ride. )
At this point over the last couple months, the engine at time felt so gutless becaust the cylinder was so old and blocked and also very restictive port size and layout. Another $200 (cheap) for 120cc 55mm sport kit later and..
120cc 55mm Sport/Race Cylinder Kit with extra 20cc over stock ???120+???Guessing but becaust the engine is only hours old I havent held open throttle very long.. It feels like total rocket .. at 10% throttle Im reaching 80kph and when I give 1-2 secs of full throttle the Aerox totally rockets off.. I'l post results here in few days when i can test more and engine can be punished more.
Update: It has been a few days now and I'v been opening up the throttle allot more. I'm in love with my AeroxR 120cc so much more now.. It's gone from sporty Zippy 2stroke scooter to a seriously fast Machine. So with the throttle opened full for about 10secs from 60kph+ then Aerox shot off to 130kph (speedo ran out at 120kph) and there was even more still in it, I just didnt want to keep the throttle open for too long until I start using Synth Oil again and have a chance to go over the whole drivetrain of the scoot to re-tighten and re-adjust all the bolts and make 100% sure carb jetting is ok.
Its a good thing the Aerox is one of the best handling scooters available, with this new found power and speed. I'v ridden about 6-8 scooters that come to mind, and some of them even didn't feel stable at 60kph, let alone 120-130kph. Yamaha Aerox come with light alloy wheels.Michelin semi-slick tyres, Brembo brakes with 2 piston calipers and braided stainless steel brake lines to prevent brake line ballooning under heavy braking. The Piaoli Suspension systems on the Aerox finish off the handling package nicely with perfect bump/rebound rates (for my weight anyway.. 66kg).
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Modifications
As I'v just started the blog, I'l add more pictured as I take then while playing with the bike ect.
The first thing I changed was the rear tyre because the Michelin Bopper was worn. The rears seem to ware out much quicker than the front.. obviously this is because its carrying the most weight. I replaced it with a Michelin Pilot Sport Scooter 140/60/13. The Front Michelin Bopper is still fine althought it will be replaced soon, the compound seems to be getting hard because of its age or ware. I'd much rather get New Michelin Boppers but I cant find anywhere in Australia that sells them and when I phoned Michelin headquarters, I was told I'd need to import the as they are only sold in Europe and U.S.A.
Above is a recent photo.. the tyre is still great after 1year and 18000kms :D
The Next mods I did was abit of Painting.. I painted wheels gold/champaine colour, rear undertray white to look more racing style and kick starter black. I also added some Red Dirtbike handgrips which dont slip like the originals in the heat and feel great. The rear mudflap also got chucked in the dump.. yuk! ..And I added matching red anodised alloy tire valve caps to the wheels.
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